Like Shabaka, who defended Egypt's sovereignty in the Assyrians and also other foreign invaders, Oulevay and his partner inside the Jean Dunand venture, difficult motion producer Christophe Claret, stay independent in an market that has consolidated beneath conglomerate ownership in current years. The pieces they develop for Jean Dunand-each special, even inside of a collection-incorporate groundbreaking difficult movements into styles that reference the Art Deco-era works with the brand's namesake. In 2005, Jean Dunand debuted its initial model, the Tourbillon Orbital, which begins at $330,000 and capabilities a tourbillon cage that revolves throughout the center from the dial once per hour. The watch's geometric dial design combines satin finishes and sapin (fir tree)-patterned guilloche engraving that reflect the Art Deco influence.
Each and every Jean Dunand timepiece begins using a novel motion conceived by the 44-year-old Claret, whose eponymous watchmaking atelier has created difficult movements for Harry Winston, Ulysse Nardin, and other premier marques. "The challenge is always to combine the three-dimensional technical concepts of Christophe Claret with designs that are really distinctive," explains Oulevay. "We do not have specific rules, but we do go by the golden guidelines of proportion, general design and style, and harmony." The Egyptians, as well, favored the golden section rule, also called divine proportion, a mathematical formula for segmenting proportions to make balanced and aesthetically pleasing forms.
"With Shabaka, the brief was extremely brief," says Oulevay with the watch's initial design and style directive. "We desired a robust design, a thing edgy with an fascinating form, but we respected the golden rule whilst mixing together the square along with the round shapes."
Claret and among his designers devised the piece's rolling cylinders for your date displays. The challenge was to incorporate these rolls, which needed to be big enough to depict legible characters, with all the minute repeater caliber. A master of minute repeaters, Claret altered the configuration of his simple minute-repeater design to resolve the functionality problem caused by the significant distance amongst the rolling indicators and the correctors, which let you adjust the date within the occasion that the watch stops. On most watches, the date indicators are close for the adjusting mechanism, but together with the Shabaka, the day-of-the-week cylinder is within the opposite side in the dial from the correcting pushers. "We had to develop an ingenious program with levers and microcylinders in order to propose a reliable mechanism for the manual and instantaneous transform of date," explains Claret. "The movement from the Shabaka became a lot more complex since the number of pieces increased considerably to 721."
In spite of the watch's complexity, Claret points out, it can be easy to operate as a result of its locking correctors, equivalent to chronograph pushers, around the proper side with the watch. Even so, in the event you very own a Shabaka, you could lose some sleep from staying up until finally midnight every night, or at the least on the last day of every month, to watch the day, date, and month displays simultaneously roll over.
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